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Taken 04.04.13
Rathbone Place, London
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Looking back to 2012, a common hash tag cited on twitter on several events such as Design Africa was #TradeNotAid, a fashionable slogan in its own right adopted decades ago by the United Nations Conference on Trade Development, but one that still sits true to this day, it’s about companies and designers working with Africa, not for it. Which is why I have been excited and inspired by the Diesel+EDUN collaboration.
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Last night was the long awaited Diesel+EDUN collaboration launch party, which was part of a city wide celebration, from Paris to London and Amsterdam to Berlin. The Diesel+EDUN denim collection is born in Africa and inspired by African creativity. Most importantly the collection is sourced and manufactured in Africa with the finest cotton from the continent.
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Using raw, untreated denim, the DIESEL+EDUN collection was built around a reinterpretation of the four-pocket jean of the 1970s popular on the streets of South Africa. Malian textile prints are echoed in the denim lining and across the jersey pieces in the collection. Embroidery details reference traditional Zulu weaving patterns, while the dresses feature Kenyan metalwork. Running through the collection are four original symbols designed to reflect the heart of the DIESEL+EDUN collection. In January 2012, DIESEL founder Renzo Rosso and EDUN founders Ali Hewson and Bono travelled to Uganda and Mali, where they shared their love of the continent and toured each other’s programs: DIESEL’s Only The Brave Foundation project in Dioro, Mali and EDUN’s Conservation Cotton Initiative (CCI) in Uganda. The experience encouraged them to join forces to further apparel trade and development in Africa under the name DIESEL+EDUN.
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Diesel founder Renzo Rosso and EDUN founders Ali Hewson and Bono have joined forces and produced a collaboration that goes far beyond just fashion. The DIESEL+EDUN collaboration aims to engage a global audience with the passion of its founders to raise awareness of the creative opportunities in Africa and build sustainable trade with the continent through fashion – a global loudspeaker for the new African economic and creative paradigm.
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An in-depth experience trip to Africa last season was the catalyst for them to develop a co-branded, co-designed collection; this project is meant to channel and give visibility to Africa’s incredible creativity – in style, in fabric, in craftsmanship and encourage, as I mentioned above: TRADE and not AID.
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To bring the spirit of the collection to life, DIESEL+EDUN developed the concept of ‘Studio Africa’, described as virtual loudspeaker for a new generation of creative talents from across the continent. The campaign features nine artists in fashion, film, music, literature, and photography; individuals with both talent and a deep commitment to their respective countries and people. Curated and edited by OKAY AFRICA alongside Africa’s most creative, Studio Africa hosts inspirational, forward thinking creative work originating in or inspired by Africa.
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(I See A Different You are a trio of photographers from Soweto, South Africa with an eye for style and ambition to show their continent in a whole new light.)
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[Left]
(Petite Noir is the recording name of South Africa’s Yannick Ilunga who is championing a new musical movement)
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[Right]
(Uviwe Mangweni is an endlessly curious photojournalist and copywriter from South Africa documenting hidden stories with sensitivity)
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[Left]
(Abdellah Taïa is the first openly gay Moroccan writer and his celebrated books have been translated into several languages)
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[Right]
(Flaviana Matata is an international catwalk model who runs a foundation for the education of orphaned girls in her home country of Tanzania)
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(Baloji is a fiercely original and acclaimed rapper and producer born in DR Congo and raised in Belgium)
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[Left]
(Laurence Chauvin-Buthaud is a rising menswear designer providing local workers in her birthplace of Côte d’Ivoire with skills and training)
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[Right]
(Sy Alassane is an actor and model from Senegal who played the lead in 2011’s Sundance Film Festival official selection Restless City)
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(Tanya Mushayi is a talented surface pattern designer, stylist and blogger running her own business in Zimbabwe)
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You can follow OK Africa on Tumblr here http://www.okayafrica.com/
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To find out more about the collection follow:
Diesel UK - @Diesel_UK
EDUN- @twEdun
STUDIO AFRICA – @Studio_Africa
Okay Africa- @OKAYAFRICA
Last Friday, also included vibrant collection from Nova Chiu, graduate from London College of Fashion who I also saw last year as part of Vauxhall Fashion Scout’s ‘Ones to Watch’ show for AW12.
Nova Chiu’s highly textured, beautiful AW13 collection was inspired by Nam June Paik’s ‘Electronic Superhighway’, which is permanently on display at the Lincoln Gallery of the Smithsonian American Art Museum, Washington. Electronic Superhighway was a critical piece, conveying American culture, and its obsession with television, moving image and bright shiny things.
I strongly believe the AW13 collection is a step in the right direction for Nova Chiu. Despite her SS13 Collection receiving some criticism for moving away from heavy ‘ethnic inspired’ embroidery, to more diluted silk prints. In contrast, I felt that her SS13 complimented the burst of colour and floral prints that were predicted to dominate Spring/ Summer look books for 2013.
Furthermore , her AW13 collection will be a colourful and bold alternative to the floral print that I can only assume we would have exhausted by the end of the season.
The Nova Chiu aesthetic is one which sits on the very border of what might be considered good and bad taste. It is a precarious position – the difference between what works and what doesn’t is subtle – but it is a position occupied by some of the most innovative and noteworthy designers in fashion, so it is exciting indeed to watch the development of this fledgling brand.
Charlotte Gush- Pheonix Mag
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As part of London Fashion Week, last Friday I attended the Vauxhall Fashion Scout specifically to see Runway Collective showcase Nihan Buruks’ AW13 collection, entitled “NIAN”.
Throughout 2012, I was drawn to, and focused heavily on sharp and virile tailored style, therefore, I was keen to see whether androgyny will be making a come-back for Autumn/Winter 2013/14, and if so, what modifications we can expect.
Turkish born fashion designer Nihan Buruk typically represents an avant-garde smartness, and is known for her domineering collections, which are tailored to perfection with an exceptional eye for detail.
Despite one of the exhibition walls falling down in the middle the runway, she executed a great collection, which was both imaginative and wearable. Showcasing a powerful and militant flair, with the added dimensions of textures through adding wool and leather across pleats, lapels and pockets. The sharp collection was complimented by soft hues of charcoal grey, emerald green, cream and crimson.
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Monkeying around
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Aan African garment similar to sarong, often worn by women wrapped around the chest or waist, over the head as a headscarf, or as a baby sling.
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FYI- Jinja is the second largest town in Uganda, after Kampala.
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Try your luck
I thought she made a lovely silhouette, also loving the patterned fabric she’s in.
The Nubian Basket is made by Nubian women. Most of the Nubian community live in the slums of Kibera, and migrated to Kenya from southern Sudan during the first world war.
The River Nile is generally regarded as the longest river in the world.
The Bujugali falls is a waterfall near Jinja in Uganda where the Nile River comes out of Lake Victoria
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Never really sure what I am looking for, but I will know it when I see it
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We were greeted with a dance and songs from the Nyankole of Ankole district
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I am finally back from my East African adventure, and with so much to talk about it will take a couple of days to organise my photos and thoughts from my time spent in Uganda.
I often talk a lot about the concept of ‘Afropeanism’, a term a used to describe myself as it refers to the trans-cultural influences of members of the black diaspora living in Europe. Having been born in Uganda, and brought up in the UK, in my mind I’m an African living in Britain; yet it’s only when I go to Africa do I feel like an British person in Africa. However, despite often feeling inconclusive about my cultural identity, I also feel fortunate that I can be open to understanding and engaging in the cultural symphony of these two places.
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I couldn’t possibly contain all the activities that I have been up to into a single blog post, so I will be segmenting my stories into a range of posts over the next few weeks, I hope you enjoy!
Firstly I would like to apologise to all those who have had trouble accessing my blog over the last couple of weeks. I have resolved the technical issue, however, whilst mountain trekking up country in the village of Mbarara, resetting my domain DNS seemed to be the least of my worries! Everything is now back in working order!
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A big thank you to Sophie from Cosmopolitan Magazine for sending me a copy of this month’s issue a long with some awesome beauty treats. It made coming back to work feel all the more worthwhile!
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Congratulations to the winners for the Comfort & Samuel competition, I will be announcing the names on Twitter tomorrow. A massive thanks to everyone who took part, and Comfort & Samuel for sponsoring the giveaway.
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Glad so many of you enjoyed Barbie’s Nigerian wedding images from Nigerian photographer Obi, I knew you would love them as much as I did.
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…and of course, last but far from least. The biggest thanks to everyone who was responsible for my nomination for Women4Africa’s upcoming award ‘Blogger of the Year’. The award ceremony is in May and I’m chuffed to be in the lineup!
Congratulations to @afroblush Louisa K on making the final selections of #Women4Arica2013 See full list here women4africa.com/final-nominees/
— Women4Africa (@Women4Africa) February 4, 2013
Moving on, Jepchumba, Founder and Creative Director of the African Digital Art Network posted this today, having come across it during TedxEuston last year. This project by Nigerian photographer, Obi who was inspired by French photographer Beatrices’ Barbie and Kens’ wedding shoot, and with some inspiration from the black Barbie shoot on Italian Vogue, decided to do shoot capturing Barbies traditional Nigerian wedding.
“So I got bored sometime last December, and then came across , I decided to create a Nigerian Traditional wedding shoot with black Barbie and Ken … it started up as a pretty simple shoot that would have taken about a week or so, and ended up taking up to 5 months. I had to enlist my wife to help out with the outfits, as well as with searching the internet for all the little accessories. Anyway, I’m glad its now done, and glad I can get rid of the dolls … I was beginning to get weird looks from my son whenever I came home with a barbie and he’s asking if was for me, or for his baby sister …
Anyway hope you like the shoot …” Obi
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I can’t believe it, feels like only yesterday I was in Covent Garden market, sitting on the the lap of Covent Garden’s alcohol infused Santa, but whether I can believe it or not, Christmas time is upon us!
Although not a particular fan of the consumer centered celebration, I do love the atmosphere Christmas brings, and even more importantly the food.; which is probably why I had a thoroughly enjoyed my afternoon stroll around Covent Garden’s cobbled street food market.
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I swear to God, if you saw me when I am by myself in the woods, I’m a lunatic. I sing, I dance.
Chris Evans (Comedian)
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Growing up I often got a lot of stick for living out in ‘the sticks’, away from most friends, the city’s bars, restaurants and general hubub, but having been raised in a countryside village for almost all my life, I always had an appreciation for the suburban silence. It’s powerful peacefulness which I suppose could be described as silently noisy.
“where is the background noise? …The cars, people, buses, cats, trains, sirens, loitering youth?”
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In January, I moved into a new place which edges slightly more closer to the city, but despite being closer to the metropolis which I spend most of my time in or commuting to and/or from, I mourn my mother’s home in the countryside, and so decided on Saturday to take a 5 mile walk from my flat to hers along the country lanes.
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I documented my journey using a Nikon D80 SLR with a wide angel lens. The journey was both calm yet exciting. It was relaxing to take in the surroundings, breath in the fresh air and pass the horses and cows on my journey, however, it was quite exhilarating (borderline scary), to be the only person in sight within a 3 mile radius, walk along a, windy, narrow pavement-less road trying to not get run over by cars travelling it over 50mph.
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The most exhilarating feeling came from singing Jessie J whole album at the top of my lungs knowing that there is completely no-one around to hear me, besides the cows in the fields, whose milk likely turned sour as a result of my singing…sorry cows!
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I found a few random items on my journey, a ladies hand bag, a discarded 80′s pop CD and a white slipper. In the city of London, litter and rubbish is rife and often goes unnoticed, however, in such a deserted and sparsely littered place, I couldn’t help think about the stories regarding how those items came to be there. Especially the handbag.
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Despite afro hair texture and maintenance being quite the enigma outside most African and Caribbean communities, every year there is an event where the secrets, tips and tricks for afro hair are revealed, showcased and celebrated, and that is at the Afro Hair and Beauty Show London.
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This year the hair and beauty ‘carnival’ took was held at its newest location, the Business and Design Centre, Islington (nearest station- Angel); and having been selected by Black Hair Magazine (aka The Hair Bible), I was uber excited about not only attending but being part of the events festivities.
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Having recently passed my one year mark as a natural, it was encouraging to see more natural hair workshops, products and information than I have ever seen at previous AHB shows. A few of the workshops and seminars over the two days were:
Hair modelling for Black Hair Magazine
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On occasion people get confused between Black Beauty and Hair Magazine and Black Hair Magazine. Being that they are both successful publications on black hair, fashion and style; I often get asked which one is the better of the two. (In my opinion), Black Beauty and Hair Magazine does not come close to Black Hair Magazine. It’s a premium publication if you are interested in well researched, well written, on trend and on topic conversations and features on black fashion, hair and style. Furthermore, it has fewer full spread adverts and wider and more balanced variety of natural and relaxed hairstyles plus and much better quality of editorial content.
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So for future reference, if you have always been confused between the two, IN MY OPINION Black Hair Magazine surpasses in quality and quantity. Boom, I said it!
Anyways, back to the point, Black Hair Magazine were looking for natural hair models for the AHB show, so having gave my availability to Keysha Davis, Editor of BHM, she agreed to pair me up with Charlotte Mensah, renowned natural hairdresser and owner of Notting Hill based salon Hair Lounge.
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Charlotte would be taking a modern approach to an traditional African hair style called threading.
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…I realized that on almost every natural hair blog, whenever people talk about African hairstyles, noone ever talks about thread, and it’s such a beautiful beautiful hairstyle with so many options from conservative to really daring.” ~ sugabelly ->; Taken from Black Girl With Long Hair
The threading technique (also known as Ghana plaits) I believe originated from Ghana but has been adopted in countries all over Africa as a style that mothers often did for their children to stimulate hair growth. Threading can be achieved using ordinary sewing thread or plastic thread. On this occasion Charlotte used plastic thread to tie my hair, she created sections using a fine comb and wrapped the thread around my hair. As my hair is quite soft and at times slippery (even without oil), she tied the ends and created a bow type design so that the threads don’t open.
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I was both surprised and excited with the amount of people that came over to view Charlottes threading demonstration, many of whom had lots of questions. Here are some FAQ from the session with some answers:
- How long can you keep them in for? You can keep them in for up to two weeks
- How do you watch your hair if it’s in threads? This style is not meant for frequent washers, it is recommended that you do not wash your hair until it’s time to take the threads out.
- How can you thread long hair? You do this by folding the hair up on itself, and tying the thread around the folded hair.
- Where can I get the plastic thread? This particular thread is from Ghana, but ordinary sewing thread works fine providing it’s not too thin.
- Where can I get my hair threaded? You can get your hair threaded at Hair Lounge, Notting Hill, prices start from £7 onwards.
- What are the benefits of threading? Threading stimulates hair growth and helps to stretch natural hair without the use of extreme heat.
So if you are interested in threading be sure to contact Charlotte and her team at @hairlouge1999 on Twitter.
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Meets and greets
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The AHB show was a great place to finally several tweet peeps whom I either subscribe to or talk to over Twitter but had not got round to meeting. At the show I bumped into the lovely Natalie creator of Beauty Pulse London, Ms Fola B, creator of Black Girl Flow, media mogul and enterprenur Cyril aka Orignal Scars, African Fashion Designer Simone Williams, art & creative director Ola Shobowale and hair naturalista Tina, creator of Manestream Beauty.
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In addition to the hair based festivities, there were scheduled fashion shows showcasing innovation in African design. However, the only designs I really liked were those by Simone Williams, the rest didn’t stray too far from what we have seen on previous ASH shows. I hope that’s one area that can be focused on for next year.
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Otherwise it was a fun day out, with lots of samples, magazines and brochures to try and test out and although I didn’t spend much, I did buy an Organics inner hair deep repair, and was also excited to see Miss Jessie doing live natural hair demonstrations! I believe they will be retailing through Paks soon!
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If you went, let me know what you thought!
High-res version
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I suppose you could call this a fashionably late blog post, as it’s quite a few days over due!
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Last week, (courtesy of Grazia magazine), I was kindly given complimentary tickets to see the uber chic and inspirational french footwear designer Christian Louboutin, in celebration of his brands 20th anniversary. I had visited his exhibition currently held at the Design Museum a couple weeks prior, so this was an amazing experience to meet the man behind it all. Louboutin was to be interviewed by Grazia’s style director Paula Reed on an array of subjects covering his childhood inspirations, the story behind the signature ‘red sole’, and his views on the fashion industry.
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The queue into the Louboutin live talk stretched quite the distance, and full of eager fans paying homage to Louboutin by wearing their red soled Stiletto’s along the cobbled pavements of London Bridge, not an easy task I can assure you.
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We were greeted by the design museum staff and willingly sedated with a chilled mini of Moet. Christian was applauded on stage, wearing a dark vanilla jacket trimmed jacket, black trousers and a pair of silver-capped brogues. He looked effortlessly chic.
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In the live talk he came across as a humble, earnest, passionate and particular man. In the audience Q&A session, he was questioned by a young female fashion designer and student how he has managed to uphold a powerful and successful brand imagine, even in times of global and economic diversity. His initial response was that he does not see himself as ‘a brand’, he has no need for a marketing department etc. He understands why new brands possibly might, but that it’s never been what it was about for him….neither does he intentionally follow the fashion industry or its in/out of season trends.
Here is the link to read more from Paula’s conversation with Christian, along with the video on the Grazia website. Overall, it was a fantastic evening with a two hour interview which felt like only 10 minutes. It was refreshing to meet someone so successful but yet so humble and self assured. I took on his comments to stay as organic and true oneself as a mantra to hold on to.
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Again, many thanks to Grazia for the opportunity, and as always, some pictures from the night. Click on the smaller images below to open the gallery.
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